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"THERE ARE ONLY A FEW PLACES IN THIS WORLD WHERE CULTURAL PLURALISM EXISTS THE WAY IT DOES IN MATTANCHERRY. IN THIS MAZE OF MULTIPLE STREETS, EVERY RIGHT ANGLE TURN GREETS YOU WITH SURPRISE, TRANSPORTING YOU TO A SMALL TOWN IN SOME OTHER PART OF THE WORLD." ANANYA RAJOO
For us, who studied at Manipal University, name of the small town Udupi has two meanings – Sri Krishna Temples & Masala Dosa! Both ‘worshiped’ in different way… so when my friends told me: “Let’s go to Sri Krishna Cafe at Mattancherry. It is one of the oldest restaurants, run by Udupi Brahmins.” I simply stopped riksha and said to driver: “Sri Krishna Cafe at Mattancherry!”
Sri Krishna Cafe is situated in the middle of the Palace road, next to the fruit market, in front of Krishna Temple. Old white functionalist building houses one of the oldest restaurants in Mattancherry, which serves authentic pure vegetarian South Indian food since 1946. Restaurant is run by the third generation of Udupi Brahmins.
The time has its own pace here. On the left side sits cashier with tilak on his forehead. Behind him is a big calendar Sri Krisna poster in thick wodden frame, illuminated by small lights and decorated by flower garland. Soft sandal wood sticks fragrance is there to pleased gods.
We sit next to the opened window. Sri Krishna Cafe is typical South Indian ‘hotel’ (as restaurants are usually called), one big bright room with ten wooden tables and heavy chairs. On each table is big pot of cumin water (really helpful in digestion) with steel glasses and paper with short menu. We order vada, masala dosa, vegetable biriani and vegetable cutlets.
While we are waiting for a food I take my camera and go around. In front of the kitchen stands older man with grey hair and big smile. He wears only orange dhoty and sacred thread, sign of Brahmin. I ask for permission to take a photograph. He agrees but explains me, that I can not enter a kitchen, it is sacred space. I can take photo only through open door.
The origin of famous Udupi cuisine is the stuff of legend. There are some who say that the tradition of feeding the thousands of devotees at the famous Sri Krishna temple in Udupi led to the creation of the typical hotel menu: fast, hot, clean food. Others claim that these were the delicacies invented by devotees to tempt the mischievous Sri Krishna, the town's most beloved hero, to stay in Udupi. The origins may be subject to debate, but there is no doubt about this one fact: Udupi Brahmins are obsessive foodies.
The term Udupi is synonymous with vegetarian food now found all over world. This cuisine was developed by Shivalli Madhwa Brahmins who cooked food for Lord Krishna at Krishna Matha Temple in Udupi. Lord Krishna is offered food of different varieties every day, and there are certain restrictions on ingredients during Chaturmasa (a four-month period during the monsoon season). These restrictions coupled with the requirement of variety led to innovation, especially in dishes incorporating seasonal and locally available materials.
Udupi cuisine adheres strictly to the ‘Satvik’ tradition of Indian vegetarian cuisine, using no onions or garlic, as well as no meat, fish, or shellfish. However, the cuisine may also be adapted for those who consume these restricted items. Following the tradition of chaaturmasa vrata, which is a restriction of certain food ingredients in a certain period or season, may have led to the innovation of a variety of dishes in Udupi cuisine. Pumpkins and gourds are the main ingredients in sambar, a stew prepared with ground coconut and coconut oil as its base.
Waiter is bringing the food on stainless steel divided plates. Vada with pumpkin sambar and coconut chutney. Vegetable biriyani with spicy pickles, raita and papadam. Vegetables cutlets (you can order them only after 5pm). Oh, did I mentioned, that the ubiquitous Indian dish masala dosa has its origins in Udupi!
Udupi restaurants and hotels can be found all over India and many parts of the world. In the past, these restaurants were run by cooks and priests trained at Krishna Matha Temple at Udupi. Most Udupi restaurants and hotels are family run, with ownership passing among kith and kin of the original owner. Also, Udupi restaurants have undergone many changes in their menu in recent times, adapting to changing economical structure and social statuses in India. They have included vegetarian delicacies from other Indian cuisines.
Founder & Director of Ayurveda Trails, healing collection of (extra)ordinary people and their stories, whose experiences are transferred into various trails shared by travelers.
VISHU FESTIVAL
NEW YEAR IN KERALA
The Malayalam word kani literally means that which is seen first. The traditional belief is that one's future is a function of what one experiences, that the New Year will be better if one views auspicious joyful things as the first thing on Vishu.
10 REASONS WHY AYURVEDA TRAILS ARE DIFFERENT
Ayurveda trails is using the symbol of mudra as reminder, healing is in your hands. We are creating a small collection of highly specialised ayurveda resorts run by passionate ayurveda experts, who want to keep authentic healing knowledge for modern world.
What is ayurveda? How is this ancient medical system connected with yoga, meditation, healthy food, relaxation in nature and modern life style? Ayurveda Trails is dedicated to everyone, who would like to travel and search answers to these questions.
NAVARATRI
Festival of Nine Goddesses
Navaratri is a nine night festival that honors the Mother Goddess in all her manifestations. The worship, accompanied by fasting, takes place in the mornings. Evenings are for feasting and dancing. Each day has a different ritual associated with it.
ONAM
The Harvest Festival in Kerala
Onam is the most popular festival in Kerala. It can be traced to the primitive harvest festival and also to the myth regarding King Mahabali - the benevolent asura ruler who brought peace and prosperity to his country. It is celebrated in August and September.
The importance of the feast to the Kerala's Onam celebration culture is captured in the famous Malayalam proverb: Kaanam Vittum Onam Unnanam - which means: One must have the Onam lunch even by selling one's property, if need be.
MANALTHEERAM AYURVEDA BEACH VILLAGE
Manaltheeram Ayurveda Beach Village, gives you an opportunity to pamper yourself with a heavenly experience. Enter the world of holistic healing and let Ayurveda and meditation restore your physical, mental, spiritual and emotional equilibrium.
MANALTHEERAM
Dr. Hemalatha Manoj
In Manaltheeram, we believe, that Ayurveda is a divine science of life, our hands should be pure to treat a patient. Sometimes we are not able to cure every one but it is important not to make any mistakes from our hands. We pray to God.
Somatheeram, the world’s first Ayurveda hospital set in a resort ambiance to provide Ayurveda healing and treatments programmes. With its exotic tropical beauty and tranquil hospitality, this getaway is the perfect place for relaxation and rejuvenation.
The World’s First Ayurveda Tourist Resort: Baby Mathew, in 1985 together with his brother Dr.Pauly Mathew, has founded the world’s first ayurveda tourist resort Somatheeram in Kerala. How has this journey started?
Cliff View Ayurveda Retreat is built in the Bauhaus style, which aims to reunite fine art and functional design, creating practical objects with the soul of artworks. The resort embrace the philosophy of traditional Ayurveda in modern style.
HARIVIHAR HERITAGE
Dr. Sri Kumar
Harivihar, abode of the divine, is a 170 year old painstakingly restored royal heritage homestead located in Calicut. It offers unparalleled experience of staying in a heritage ambience and benefit from the goodness of Ayurveda and Yoga, two great contributions of India to mankind.
I hesitated for publishing this story quite late, but there’s a beauty in rewinding. Makes me appreciate how all those days have become of me. The clever fall of dominoes of life events that led me to still standing. A very happy new year to all!
SwaSwara means your inner voice, this is a place of natural harmony to release, refocus and recalibrate the self. Inspired by the first sound of creation, the resort in Gokarana on Aum Beach is a perfect setting to enable one to hear the voice of the inner self.
Green gram is a powerhouse of nutrition. It has high nutritive value and can be consumed by anyone for improving health. Hence, this superfood is one of the most vital detoxifying agent as well as an energiser that helps to enhance the immunity of the body.
KAIRALI - THE AYURVEDIC HEALING VILLAGE
There is no better place to get inside nature and rejuvenate with natural medicine than the sweet scented forests of Kerala's Pala trees. Time spent at this jungle paradise will allow you to experience the authentic healing practices of India.
